If you are fortunate enough to take a business trip to Tokyo there's a reasonable chance you'll find yourself in Marunouchi, Tokyo's financial district, at some point. Even if you are there for pleasure, this part of Tokyo is worth a visit. This post is aimed at those staying in the area with a few hours to spare.
A Very Short History
Marunouchi means "inside the circle" which refers to its position within the Imperial Palaces' outer moat. Despite its origins dating back to the 1590's when Tokugawa Ieyasu - the first Shogun of Japan - moved into Edo Castle and flooded the area to create an inner moat. In 1890 the Mitsubishi Corporation purchased the area for ¥1.5M ($14,000 in today's money) with the vision to turn it into a business district like those in Europe and US. A few decades on, the turning point came when Tokyo Station (more below) opened in 1914. The Marunouchi of today is mostly the result of the large-scale redevelopment that started in 2000 that has, in my view, matured into an area worthy of spending time in beyond the office.
Photo by Claire Chang on Unsplash
Tokyo Station
Tokyo Station was opened in 1914 to showcase Japan's expanding railway network. If you arrive by train from Narita airport on the NEX (more below) you'll find yourself here. It's a big place and incredibly busy at peak hours (which requires some patience if you are dragging the family's ski gear!). Despite being a bit overwhelming initially, it is easy enough to navigate once you get the hang of it. There is signage in English and the trains are not too difficult to work out from the departure boards but allow a bit more time than normal.
Top Tips
Tokyo Station Hotel (see below) is a beautiful, contemporary Japanese hotel which I highly recommend. The Four Seasons also has a Marunouchi outpost - a smaller version of the one down the road in Otemachi but about 40% cheaper at times.
If you need to pick up presents for your (younger) children "Character Street" in the below ground level of Tokyo Station is awesome. Hello Kitty, Totoro/Studio Ghibli, Rikaluma, Doraemon, Miffy, Ultra Man - it has them all. Head for the Yaesu side exit on level -1.
For a quick dinner for one after work without too many challenges, Kitchen Street has a lot of easy options and menus with pictures.
On the Yaesu side (opposite to the Marunouchi side) don't miss the Daimaru food hall (-1 level) near Character Street. This is probably my favourite food hall in the world and while it seems a bit overwhelming initially, the bento boxes are a perfect lunch or hotel room dinner. They also sell Tokyo Banana (overpriced sponge cakes with banana creme) which are always a favourite coming home gift.
Side Bar: Airport Trains
Narita Airport Express (N'EX) is a very efficient and fast way to get to and from Narita Airport. It takes around 55 minutes on the high-speed train and is relatively easy to navigate following the N'EX signs.
You can buy tickets relatively easily from the machines but in my experience this can be a bit confusing and the machines are fussy about credit cards. Easier to go into the ticket offices (in off-peak times). I often drop in the day before as they can get very busy.
First class seats are called Green Car seats. They cost around double standard seats (around $50 one-way to Narita) but the cars are usually fairly empty and the seats are more spacious. Somewhat confusingly you get two tickets - one for the standard seat and one for the upgrade. You only need to put the seat ticket through the turnstile but keep them both.
If you arrive very early at Narita, the first N'EX train doesn't start until about 7:45am. The ticket office will try to sell you a local "express" service which will get you there but takes about 1.5 hours on a local train with a lot of stops. Consider a car or bus transfer at that time of the morning.
The Subway
I've wanted to travel on the Tokyo subway ever since I read Richard Scarry's story about Sue Zuki taking her sausage home on the Tokyo train (don't hold your breath for a re-print). I didn't quite get pushed into the train by the chaps in white gloves but rush hour is still true to its name. The rest of the time the Tokyo subway is a clean (of course) and efficient way to get around the city. Buy a Suica card (equivalent of a London Oyster, Hong Kong Octopus etc.) and it works more or less the same as any subway once you get your head around the different lines.
Photo by Egor Myznik on Unsplash
Taxis
The first thing you will notice about Tokyo taxis is how immaculately clean they are inside and out. This won't surprise you once you've spend a few days in country but the taxis really are a thing of beauty. Not overly expensive, they are a good option for shorter journeys. Many taxi drivers however speak little or no English in my experience although they will certainly try their best. The easiest thing is to have your destination written on a card/phone in Japanese (and your return destination). Most concierges will help you with this. Just watch the back doors - many of them close automatically and sometimes fairly violently.
Photo by JuniperPhoton on Unsplash
Where to Stay
There are plenty of amazing hotels in Tokyo but in Marunouchi a few of my favourites are the Tokyo Station and the Palace Hotel with an honourable mention to the Mandarin Oriental which has a stunning bar - worth a visit even if you are not staying there. The hotels below are best suited to the expense account but there many different options including traditional Ryokan to suit all budgets if you do some research.
Tokyo Station Hotel - Opened in 2012 after a major refurbishment, the once almost derelict part of Tokyo Station has been converted into an elegant hotel. I like it for its Japanese aesthetic, location and calm ambience plus it's a little different from the usual 5-star international hotels.
The Palace Hotel - Also the recipient of a relatively recent overhaul, the Palace is a beautiful hotel with all the usual 5 star bits. The best part however is the fact it is opposite the Imperial Palace with rooms that overlook the moats and palace grounds. Obviously popular as prices have gone up in recent years and availability down.
Marunouchi Hotel - A bit more left-field but the Marunouchi is located in the Oazo complex opposite the station. Convenient and reasonably priced but possibly showing a bit of wear-and-tear now since I haven't been there for some time. Single rooms are just that but if you have carry-on and don't need much space, it works. Budget conscious trainspotters will enjoy the views over the Tokyo Station platforms.
The Four Seasons - There are two offerings in close proximity. The Four Seasons at Otemachi is the full-fat version with stunning vistas over the Imperial Palace and surrounds. A smaller version can be found in Marunouchi itself which lacks the grand lobby, swimming pools etc. but can be significantly less for the Four Seasons experience and well-positioned for the train spotters.
The New Otani - Actually in Chiyoda not Marunouchi but I had to stay here because this was the hotel that was used in the James Bond film You Only Live Twice (1967) as the Osato Chemical & Engineering Co Ltd headquarters - a SPECTRE front. Despite it being fairly old school I loved it including the famous gardens and the deserted underground shopping mall.
The Imperial Hotel - The Imperial dates back to the 1880s and feels a bit like it at times however it remains a Grand Hotel in the best tradition. They have been progressively renovating rooms over the past few years which was very much needed but overall quite a cool place to stay (about a 20 minute walk to Marunouchi). Sample the Japanese whiskey collection in the Frank Lloyd Wright designed bar.
Imperial Palace
The Imperial Palace sits at the heart of Marunouchi. There are only limited parts of the outer grounds you can access but the moats, walls and surrounds are worth visiting. By far the best part of the complex however is the popular 5km running circuit around the palace grounds (anticlockwise is the recommended direction). Japanese are keen runners and it's popular but not overly crowded. A perfect way to sweat out the jet lag and if you are lucky, to enjoy the cherry blossoms.
Eating
There are a huge range of options in Marunouchi from top-floor, expense account restaurants in the glass towers to local gems in nearby Yurakutcho (also has a huge Muji store nearby). With a bit of luck you'll be taken somewhere fabulous by your colleagues but in case not, it's hard to have a bad meal in Tokyo. A few things to consider:
Given it's the financial district and there there is a big foreign and ex-pat crowd in Marunouchi, there are more stand-alone bars than you would find in other parts of Tokyo.
Check out the laneways in and around the Yurakutcho area particularly under the railway lines. These are more local places but order a bieru, smile a lot and point to things on the menu. It's close to Ginza too if you fancy walking there after dinner.
If you are heading to Ginza and looking for traditional Japanese crafts pay a visit to Kyukyodo which has been there since the 17th century.
Don't overlook the restaurant floors in the office buildings around Marunouchi (including the top floor of the Marunouchi building). There are some gems in there and you can access them from the ground floor lobby.
Sidebar: Sushi
Popular rumour has it that Tokyo is the most expensive place in the world to eat Sushi however it's not too difficult to find a reasonably priced, authentic sushi experience. The good news is that in Tokyo is that your "average" sushi restaurant is anything but, with sushi almost always eaten freshly made by the chef standing in front of you on the other side of the counter. A Japanese colleague whom I often have lunch with when I am in town explained that the freshness of the sushi is so important that it must be eaten immediately upon serving regardless of whose plate arrives first. Even if it costs a little more than an average meal it's a must-do dining experience but look for the local places not the ones aimed at tourists.
Photo by Thomas Marban on Unsplash
Language
Even for seasoned travellers the language can be a bit intimidating at times. Luckily Japan is well signposted in English so with a bit of patience, getting around is not too difficult. However, outside international hotels and high-end stores you will find English is not as widely spoken as you may have come to expect in other countries in Asia or in other parts of the world. In many ways this is a good thing and adds to the overall experience if you approach it with the right attitude. Make the effort to learn the basics (as you should in every country you visit) but in Japan, focus on getting the pronunciation right. Even if you don't get it right, try - it makes a huge difference. Good humour and a bit of pointing at things usually works - as it does in most places!
With a few hours or minutes to spare...
A few things in Marunouchi I try to do if I have a bit of time to spare:
Run (or walk) around the outer circuit of the Imperial Palace. It's a popular running track around 5km long - probably my favourite place for an urban run anywhere in the world.
Maruzen bookshop in Marunouchi Oazo. Head to the top floor for Japanese cards, stickers, pens etc. - a great gifting option if time is limited. (Itoya in nearby Ginza is also a great option for stationary).
Character Street (as mentioned above) - level -1 Tokyo Station. Best for all the Japanese character merchandise as the name suggests.
The global flagship Muji store in Yurakutcho (a short walk). The Muji with all the bits you haven't seen.
While in Yurakutcho, check out the local eateries under the railway bridges and surrounds.
Daimaru food hall - Yaesu side of Tokyo Station level -1. Pick up the Tokyo Banana's and a bento box if you need a quick lunch or hotel room dinner.
PS. If all else fails, Akihabara Duty Free at the airport has everything you need for Japanese gifting!
Post your Tokyo tips in the forum along with any great Marunouchi tips!
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