Having spent several years living in Singapore, how to fill in a weekend on a business trip is another popular tip I enjoy sharing with friends and colleagues
Singapore
Singapore is a great place to spend a few days whether adding on to a business trip, a stop-over to somewhere else or a destination in its own right. Even if you are just flying in for a few meetings (yes, I'm sure we'll do that again one day!), it's worth scratching the surface beyond your hotel and office.
The more time you digging a little deeper in Singapore, the more you discover the rich history, diverse culture and a beguiling quirkiness to the place. A weekend doesn't do Singapore justice but its compact geography means you can pack a lot in. https://www.visitsingapore.com/en/ has a lot of great information as a starting point.
Photo by Mike Enerio on Unsplash
Climate
Singapore is hot and humid more or less all of the time. Typical daytime temperatures are around 33C (91F) dropping down to the high 20's (~80F) in the evenings. This can vary somewhat depending on the time of year however the humidity is regularly in the 90%+ range and this is what can make spending prolonged periods outside challenging if you are not used to it. The best advice is to stay hydrated and plan your days to include some breaks in air-conditioned locations to reset a bit.
Getting Around
Taxis
Singapore taxis are overall clean, reliable and reasonably priced. You can hail them or better still, use the Grab or Comfort Delgro apps. Comfort Delgro have the nicest cabs but for the relatively short journeys you don't have to be too picky. Singapore traffic is generally good so taxis are the most efficient mode of transport if you are trying to maximise your time. There are a few times when getting a taxi quickly can be challenging including the evening peak and when it rains. Whenever there is one of Singapore's regular tropical downpours, availability seems to dry up immediately. For more details on taxis read on below.
MRT (Mass Rapid Transit)
The MRT is Singapore's immaculately clean and efficient underground rail network. It's very easy to navigate and inexpensive. Pick up a EZ-link card at any station or check out https://www.ezlink.com.sg for different unlimited travel tourist options for rail and buses.
Where to Stay
Singapore is not short of hotels from the big international chains along with more interesting boutique options. If you want to go international, the following are my pick in the Downtown vicinity but there plenty of other great options if you spend the time researching what works best for you.
Mandarin Oriental - as you would expect from the MO, an elegant and sophisticated hotel despite the fit-out not being the most recent. Definitely worth spending the extra for the Marina Bay view rooms on a high floor. Upgrading to a room with club lounge access is also worthwhile with a generous array of food and drink options. Great pool and restaurant on the roof.
Photo by Ambrose Chua on Unsplash (Mandarin Oriental)
Pan Pacific - a similar era to the MO and overall a very decent hotel. It doesn't quite have edge that the MO and Four Seasons but isn't far off.
Four Seasons - the third option on Raffles Avenue, the Four Seasons is what you would expect from a Four Seasons. Like the MO and Pan Pacific, not the newest and bay view rooms are a worthwhile upgrade.
Marina Bay Sands - one of the biggest benefits here is that you will always get a room with a good view, either over the Straits of Malacca or Marina Bay. On the downside, this is a massive hotel and can feel a bit like a zoo with over 5000 staff keeping this small city running. The rooms are a bit underwhelming, breakfast is an unpleasant bun-fight and while the infinity pool on the 58th floor is a novelty, the swimming part wasn't a very, let's say, refreshing experience.
Photo by Harish Shivaraman on Unsplash (Marina Bay Sands)
The Westin, Asia Square - firmly aimed at the business traveler crowd, the Westin is very convenient if you need to spend time in Asia Square or Marina Bay Financial Centre. I don't love the room configurations where most of the natural light and view is in the bathroom and hallway. Otherwise, the hotel is new and comfortable.
Raffles - not much needs to be said here. Recently reopened after a major refit, Raffles is a masterpiece of colonial luxury and worth visiting even if you are not staying.
Photo by bady abbas on Unsplash (Raffles Hotel)
The Fullerton - housed in the old Post Office building, the Fullerton is a Singapore stalwart. The decor feels a bit tired in the rooms but they are comfortable and well set up. Some of the rooms have internal views only looking down into the central void which isn't terrible but if views are important, it's best to specify. Nice rooftop pool.
The Fullerton Bay - relatively newly built, The Fullerton's cousin takes it up a few notches on all levels. Even if you are not staying here, a visit to the rooftop bar is worth doing. Overall, a proper 5-star hotel experience as only Asia can do.
SO/ (Sofitel) - housed in a restored historic building the SO is a little more low-key and boutique feeling than the options above but not skimping on any of the details. It was actually a refreshing change from the standard 5-star formula.
The Warehouse Hotel, Robinson Quay - this was being built while I was living in Singapore but by all accounts it's a triumph. Housed in a historic godown, this is the kind of boutique hotel experience that looks like it's worth breaking away from the usual options for.
Eating
One of the best parts of life in Singapore is of course the food. Chinese, Indian, Malay, Hokkien, varieties of Western, and many others; all combine to create an wealth of potential food memories.
Hawker Food
A staple of Singapore life, hawker markets can be found almost everywhere and offer authentic local food experiences. Many of the markets can be found at the bottom of HDB (public housing) towers and were designed to feed a large population cheaply and nutritiously where kitchen facilities were limited. One of Singapore's most famous dishes - Tian Tian Chicken Rice - was popularised during the Japanese occupation of WWII. When the British were forced out, their Hainanese servants lost their source of income and opened the first Chicken Rice shops. The fragrant rice is cooked with lemongrass, ginger garlic and pandan leaf topped with boiled or roasted chicken and has since become Singapore's national dish with many variations on the original eaten everywhere. Where to find the best Chicken Rice is a favourite local topic - ask around!
Photo by Annie Spratt on Unsplash
The following is assuming you are staying centrally and don't want to travel too far afield. If you do want to explore a bit further, ask the locals for some recommendations.
Lau Pau Sat Hawker Centre (18 Raffles Quay) - also known as Telok Ayer Market. The early colonial era market with its wrought iron decoration and open air dining is a great starting point and not too challenging. Order from the stalls, find a seat and enjoy. (If you see a packet of napkins at a seat, it's an informal but respected way of reserving a spot). Being in the Downtown Core area, Lau Pau Sat can be busy at peak times during the week (lunch especially) but generally quieter at weekends.
Photo by Lily Banse on Unsplash (Lau Pau Sat)
Lau Pau Sat Satay Street - At the same location, Satay Street kicks off from 7:00pm and runs until late. 10+ stalls sell some of the best satay you'll eat. Everyone has their favourite stall but it's hard to go wrong. Best washed down with a cold Tiger beer.
Tiong Bahru Market - A short taxi ride away is Tiong Bahru, one of the most Insta-ready locations in Singapore. It has one of the best food markets in Singapore and feels more local than Lau Pau Sat. It's worth visiting just for the food or better still, wander the streets and enjoy the architecture (Singapore's oldest housing estate), the shophouses and artistic vibe of the area.
Photo by Rayson Tan on Unsplash (Tiong Bahru)
Other Downtown Food Markets - all within a relatively short distance from the Downtown area, there are plenty of other food markets to explore. It's an easy walk although with the humidity you might want to consider a taxi.
Hong Lim Market & Food Centre (Upper Cross Street, Chinatown)
Amoy Street Food Centre (Maxwell Road)
Chinatown Complex Food Centre (Smith Street)
Maxwell Food Centre (Kadayanallur Street)
Ice Cream Uncles - admittedly this sounds a bit dodgy out of context, but a slab of ice-cream between two wafers on the side of the street is a good time for a few $SG.
Photo by Christian Chen on Unsplash
Restaurants
Singapore has a vast array of well-documented amazing restaurants so I'm not going to attempt to cover all of that here. The following, however, are a few areas and specific places to check out in the Downtown area and surrounds.
Marina Bay Sands - if you need a little air-conditioned respite combined with high-end shopping and dining, Marina Bay Sands Shoppes is your go-to option. There are some big name chef restaurants here from Gordon Ramsey's Bread Street Kitchen to Daniel Boulud's db Bistro & Oyster Bar along with another 40+ options. If you are dining alone it's usually relatively easy to get a walk-in table without a reservation.
Marina Bay - on the opposite side from Marina Bay Sands runs a great range of restaurants and bars, many with open air seating beside the water. Snap a picture of the Merlion while you're at it or have a cocktail on the rooftop bar of the Fullerton Bay Hotel. If you are staying in one of the Raffles Ave hotels (e.g. Mandarin Oriental, Four Seasons, Pan Pacific) it's an easy walk home via the Esplanade Bridge and there are plenty more dining and bar options near the distinctive Durian themed concert hall.
Clarke Quay - if you are on a business trip with a few people, chances are some genius is going to suggest going to Clarke Quay. Not my favourite due to its preponderance of drunken tourists but there are some decent places to eat, many of which have tables outside by the River. Violet Oon is one recommendation (or if you are feeling adventurous, book a table at the original in Bukit Timah).
Photo by carina hleap on Unsplash (River Valley Road, Clarke Quay)
Duxton Hill - a more interesting option than Clarke Quay, the former nutmeg plantation is lined with colourful terrace houses, shops, bars and restaurants. There are plenty of options to explore but in case you fancy a diversion from the local cuisine, Lucha Loco Mexican is worth a visit.
Dempsey Hill - A 20-30 minutes taxi ride from the Downtown area but a great opportunity to see a bit more of Singapore. Dempsey Hill is the old British Army Barracks complex now converted into a dining, antiques and arts complex scattered around the winding roads of Dempsey Hill itself. Read some more specific recommendations below.
Chilli Crab - a local food experience worth doing at least once. Extracting the crab requires a bit of patience but is ultimately worth the effort. Served in several ways including the traditional sauce and buns or salt and pepper. Jumbo Seafood is the go-to place on Boat Quay (branches in Dempsey Hill, East Coast Park and ION Orchard + Jewel @ Changi if you missed out).
Din Tai Fung - the Taiwanese chain has a number of outposts in Singapore and the Dim Sum based menu is always excellent. In the Downtown area you can get your dumpling fix at the Marina Bay Sands Shoppes mall or the Marina Bay Link Mall (level -1).
MosBurger - I admit it, I love the Japanese chain MosBurger. As the name suggests, it's a burger shop but with a Japanese twist. They have a few locations in Singapore including Marina Bay Financial Centre Tower 3. Try the Spice Mos Cheeseburger or for something different, swap out the buns for rice cakes.
Cycling
Maybe not the first thing thing that comes to mind when considering how to spend time in Singapore but cycling is very popular from the hardcore crowd on the $20,000 bikes to the wide range of public hire bikes. It's also a relatively safe place to ride with trails around the coast lines and traffic on the roads that is generally respectful of cyclists. Jump on Strava and there are some terrific routes across and around the island including up through Changi and Kranji which is a great way to experience another side of Singapore. There are also some decent mountain biking trails including Bukit Timah Nature Reserve.
If you are new to exercising in high humidity and heat, my advice is to take it easy and ensure you stay hydrated which can be a challenge on longer rides. There's a good chance you'll get wet especially if riding in the afternoon, and be prepared to take shelter from both rain and lightning. One excellent option for serious riders is Livelo where you can pre-book a Cervelo road bike with whatever gear you need and have it delivered to your hotel.
Running
A pursuit best enjoyed in the early morning in Singapore, but for keen runners there are some great options. From the Downtown area one of the most popular is around Marina Bay and through the Gardens by the Bay (access from underneath the Helix Bridge next to Marina Bay Sands). You can add distance by heading up to the Marina Barrage, over the bridge and along the East Coast path. My favourite time was heading off in the dark around 6:00am while it is relatively cool and enjoying the sunrise towards 7:00am.
Walking
Early mornings are also a good time to go walking but at other times of the day it's worth planning ahead a little if you will be out for a few hours. See https://www.nparks.gov.sg for more info and ideas. You will need to take a taxi or MTR to most of the place to explore listed below.
Photo by Felix Fuchs on Unsplash (Mount Faber - Henderson Waves)
Gardens by the Bay - as the immaculately tended tropical gardens mature this is an increasingly pleasant place to spend time. Both the Flower Dome and Cloud Forest are worth visiting (buy tickets on site) as is the SuperTree Grove or just wander.
East Coast pathway - along the beaches (continue from Gardens by the Bay or taxi to a starting point on the East Coast Park)
Fort Canning Park - the hill on which Fort Canning is built has a number of paths and historic places of interest to wander around.
Singapore Botanic Gardens - a large and spectacular space that is well worth the short taxi ride to visit. Established in 1859, the gardens are now a World Heritage Site. If you like orchids, make a point of visiting the National Orchid Garden.
Mount Faber Park - part of the Southern Ridges, which also comprises Telok Blangah Hill Park, HortPark, Kent Ridge Park and Labrador Nature Reserve, Mount Faber is a great option for the more energetic and includes the Henderson Waves sculptural wooden walkways. Great views and an option to take the cable car to Sentosa Island.
MacRitchie Reservoir - a popular spot for walking, cycling, cross-country runs and tree-top walks, it's a little further afield but worth visiting if you have some extra time. It's also a good spot to encounter some of Singapore's long-tailed macaque monkeys.
Singapore River - starting at the Fullerton Hotel, cross the Cavenagh Bridge and start your walk along the river past the Asian Civilisations Museum. Continue for as long as you feel up to it (you can always taxi home). Passing through Clarke Quay through River Valley to Robinson Quay you'll find a wide range of bars and restaurants to take breather at.
Bumboats - a fun way to combine walking and cruising is to jump on a bumboat. You can catch them from various locations along the river but one options is to walk to Robinson Quay and take one back to Marina Bay. The river tour was particularly fun at night but still a great daytime option.
Museums
If you are into Museums, Singapore has some good ones. One I particularly liked was the National Museum of Singapore which has a host of fascinating information about Singapore's history including the wartime experiences under Japanese occupation. The Asian Civilisations Museum is worth visiting and you can combine it with a walk or bumboat ride along the Singapore River. Find out more at: https://www.visitsingapore.com.
For a left field experience, head out to the west of the island for a visit to Haw Par Villa. Built in the 1930s but the founders of the Tiger Balm empire, Haw Par Villa has been scaring generations of Singaporean children into behaving well with its graphic depictions of the 10 stages of Hell along with a variety of strange statues, pagodas and mythical figures. Bring water as it can get a little hot exploring the park.
Singapore Zoo
I try and avoid zoos as a general rule however if you want to get close up with Kai Kai and Jai Jai the resident Pandas, you should put this on the list. You get a very close encounter with these amazing animals and you don't leave feeling overly uncomfortable about where they live or how they are cared for. The River Safari was also less Itchy and Scratchy Land than expected with animals in open environments including Capybaras (worth doing just for them).
Shopping
There is ample opportunity for some air-conditioned respite at one of Singapore's many malls. This is going to appeal more to people who need to escape the humidity for a while and/or fancy dropping some cash in the array of luxury brands Singapore has. In the Downtown vicinity you have a number of mall options:
The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands - a true one-stop-shop for luxury brands and mid-tier brands.
VivoCity - a short taxi or MRT-ride away, VivoCity is a large mid-range mall with the additional benefit of being where you can catch the Monorail to Sentosa Island.
Suntec City (Marina Bay) - a large complex with a mall along with conference and exhibition space.
Orchard Road - a taxi or MRT ride away, Orchard Road is Singapore's most famous shopping strip. There are a number of shopping centres along Orchard Road itself including ION Orchard at the top of the bill.
Mustafa Centre, Little India - for some variety from the marble and luxury stores, try the Mustafa Centre. It's more like a market experience and you'll find plenty of random gift options to take home.
Chinatown and Little India - great options if you need to pick up some souvenir gifts to take home. Don't be afraid to barter a little but don't expect it to be like Vietnam or Thailand.
Sample Itinerary
Friday Evening
Kick off the evening with sunset drinks at 1-Altitude at 1 Raffles Place. 360 degree views from Singapore's highest bar at 282m. ~$SG30 cover charge so worth staying for a few drinks. Alternatively, for a little less after-work crowd, a glass of Champagne at the rooftop bar the Fullerton Bay hotel.
Get your satay fix at Satay Street opposite Lau Pau Sat or head to Boat Quay for a chilli crab session at Jumbo Seafood (bookings a good idea).
Take an easy stroll/taxi home through the warm evening air or keep the party going on the Marina Bay waterfront.
Saturday
Shrug off Friday night and head out before the sun rises around 7:00am to Gardens by the Bay behind the Marina Bay Sands. Wander through the tropical gardens and if you are feeling energetic, cross the water at Marina Barrage and continue the trek as far as you like along the East Coast path.
After a refresh at the hotel, head to the Tiong Bahru Bakery for breakfast. It's popular on weekends so be prepared to be flexible. While in Tiong Bahru, wander through the market and check out the shophouses and surrounding streets.
If you fancy doing a bit of souvenir hunting, jump in a taxi and head to Chinatown and explore along with Little India. Grab some lunch anywhere that looks local. Alternatively, head for the air-conditioning and wander the marble halls of the Marina Bay Sands Shoppes before it gets busy in the afternoon. Fill up on dumplings at Din Tai Fung (although you may have to wait for a table).
If you want to go hard at the shopping, head for Orchard Road in a taxi. Saturday afternoons are busy so for a quieter experience, consider opening time on Sunday. Alternatively, escape the crowds and spend the afternoon in one of Singapore's museums or galleries.
Kick off your evening with a gin and homemade tonic in the garden bar at the White Rabbit on Dempsey Hill while enjoying the sunset.
Move onto dinner at Chop Suey Cafe (or any other Dempsey Hill choice including the White Rabbit restaurant if you don't want to travel far). (Advance bookings needed).
Sunday
Take a more leisurely start with a taxi ride to the Botanical Gardens and wander through the 82 hectares of gardens and trails. Alternatively, pre-book tickets on the Singapore flyer and enjoy the clearer air of the early morning for panoramic views of the island and surrounds.
Catch a taxi to Robertson Quay and enjoy lunch by the river or nearby Dempsey Hill if you are at the Botanical Gardens. There's wide range of options on offer - check out HungryGoWhere and booking ahead is a good idea as Sunday lunch is a popular time. Alternatively, keep it local and grab a taxi to Chinatown Market, one of Singapore's largest Hawker centres. If you haven't tried it already, don't miss out on a steaming plate of Char Kway Teow and an ice cold Tiger.
For a quieter afternoon, head to one of Singapore's Museums including the National Museum or the Asian Civilisations Museum. Alternatively, hit the shops on Orchard Road or enjoy a relaxing afternoon at the fully restored Long Bar at Raffles.
As the light beings to fade, head to the Merlion Park Jetty and purchase tickets for the bumboat tour along the river. You can stay on and take the round trip back to Merlion Park or jump off at any stop along the way (you can't get back on with the same ticket though).
If you are still up for it, close it out with dinner in the Duxton Hill precinct. Check out the recommendations here.
If you managed to pack all that into a weekend then you're done well! This is just a few ideas so mix and match to whatever suits you and don't be afraid to explore a little further afield. Most things in Singapore are an easy taxi ride away, so if you need to change tack, it's not hard to do.
A little more information if this is your first visit
Airport
Changi Airport is a regular winner of the world's best airport for good reason. Even for jaded airport warriors Changi's streamlined immigration, at-gate security and a large variety of lounges, shops and other distractions all contribute to an above average pre-flight experience. Even if you don't have pre-booked transport (not essential), there is a very efficient taxi system directly from the terminal where the wait is usually very short or at least reasonable at peak times.
Photo by Darren Nunis on Unsplash
Taxi tips
Black "limo" taxis cost about 20% more so if you get allocated in the taxi rank you can elect to skip and take a regular one or hold out for one to come along if you fancy of a bit of extra comfort.
Comfort Delgro (blue and yellow cabs) are the next best option with generally newer cars and drivers who speak better English.
Premier Taxis (usually silver) are the next best option but can be a bit more hit and miss with car and driver.
TransCab (red) are at the bottom of the pile but ok if that's the only option.
Almost all taxis take credit cards but there are a few (mostly TransCabs) that only take cash so best to check when boarding.
Download the Comfort Delgro and Grab apps. These are the best way to quickly book a taxi from wherever you are.
Rain - not your friend when it comes to taxis. If you happen to need a taxi when one of the regular tropical downpours happen you can expect to wait a long time especially if it's a peak time like a Friday evening.
Shift Change - there are certain times of day when the drivers change shifts and that will display on the cars. They might pick-up if you are going in their home direction but mostly not.
Tipping
Tipping isn't customary in Singapore. A service charge (10% and up) is usually added to the bill. If you feel the urge to tip no-one is going to be offended but it's not expected.
Dempsey Hill
Dempsey Hill gets a special mention here as it was one of my favourite haunts in Singapore. It's a 20-30 minute taxi ride from the Downtown area (depending on traffic, it could be more) but a great spot to explore a little further. Dempsey Hill is the old British Army barracks complex and scattered around the winding roads of Dempsey Hill itself. It's become a hub for dining, antique shops and art galleries and is popular with the ex-pat crowd and locals alike. Bookings are recommended for most of the places highlighted.
Some of my favourites include:
The White Rabbit - the bar is perfect for a pre-dinner drink or a destination in its own right. Their Sloe Gin with homemade tonic is the best I have had anywhere and I would gladly travel back for one. The restaurant is within an old church and serves excellent Western food.
Chop Suey Cafe - we loved the colonial-style, black and white fit-out nestled into the tropical foliage. Both indoor and terrace dining work equally well spending on your tolerance for the humidity. The menu is a mixture of well-executed, modern Asian dishes.
Jumbo Seafood @Dempsey - a good option if you have to satisfy the Chilli Crab urge. Check out the East Coast (by the Sea) and the Riverwalk at Boat Quay locations as well.
PS Cafe - western-style menu in airy, tropical surroundings. Was a place we tended to go for lunch rather than evenings.
Jones the Grocer - for the Aussies in particular, this was a popular spot for a proper coffee or a Melbourne-style brunch along with a great range of specialty groceries.
Samy's Curry - Samy's is famous, rustic and relatively cheap. To be honest, I was a bit underwhelmed by the food but it's still a fun Indian food experience that's refreshingly easy on the wallet.
Como Complex - billed as a "lifestyle destination" Como has become a bit of a machine with a range of restaurants, cuisines and dining options. Worth a visit.
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