Copenhagen is the perfect place for a short, relaxing city break. It is one of the more expensive European destinations but well worth the investment.
Getting There
After an easy two hour flight from London, the smooth passage through the clean and efficient Copenhagen Airport (CPH) is a taste of things to come. The airport is relatively close to the city centre so a taxi will take between 20-40 minutes depending on traffic. We pre-booked a taxi which proved unnecessary and cost significantly more than a metered fare. The cost from airport to city should be around DKK250-350. It is also worth checking with your hotel as many have fixed price arrangements with taxi companies for guests.
You also have the option of the train to Copenhagen Central Station (~15 mins with trains departing every 10 minutes in the day and every 20 in the evenings). The Metro is an easy 13 minute trip to Kongens Nytorv. Otherwise, local buses are also an option.
Where to Stay
Not surprisingly there are many excellent hotels in Copenhagen from the landmark Hotel d'Angleterre on Kongens Nytorv to interesting boutique options in the Nyhavn district. We thoroughly enjoyed our stay at Hotel Skt. Annæ, a few minutes walk from Nyhavn, Amelienborg and the pedestrianised Strøget shopping street (more below). Indre By / Old Town is a great place to stay especially for a first-time visit.
Where you stay also depends on the sort of vibe you are looking for but no matter where you end up, Copenhagen is easy to get around. Each district has its own character and the following is a great summary of each area that I found helpful when researching where to stay:
When To Visit
We visited in mid-October and as you would expect, the weather was cold but no so much that you required anything beyond a decent coat. It was a nice temperature to walk around in especially when the sun was out and it was still possible to eat outside under heat lamps and blankets in the evening if dressed appropriately. The Danes do a good Christmas and while you might spend a bit less time outside, it's also a great time to visit. In the summer months average temperatures tend to be in the low-mid 20's (70's in F) although overcast conditions and rain are not uncommon in July and August. Like the rest of Europe, these are also the busiest tourist months.
Getting Around
Copenhagen is not a huge city so most places are easily reached either by walking or taxi. Taxis are reasonably priced and relatively plentiful. However, you will quickly realise that cycling is the preferred method of transportation for many locals. The city is very bike friendly and a model of how the cyclist/pedestrian/car triangle can successfully coexist where everyone follows the rules. Definitely a terrific way to see the city in relative safety.
Things To Do
Most of the suggestions below are the obvious things you would do on your first visit to Copenhagen but all of them were enjoyable. You will find a lot of great information at https://www.visitcopenhagen.com so the following suggestions are just a starter.
Amalienborg Palace & Surrounds
The Amalienborg Palace consists of four identical building around a cobbled square that frames the statue of Frederik V and Frederiks Kirke (The Marble Church). Christian VIII's palace houses the museum which was unfortunately closed when we were there but looks worth visiting for anyone with a passing interest in European royal history. Next to the palace, Amilehaven is small, pretty park on the waterfront.
If palaces are your thing then Copenhagen has plenty more in addition to Amalienborg:
Kronborg Castle - the storied Renaissance palace is in easy reach of the central city.
Christiansborg Palace - located in Slotsholmen, you can explore the insides of the palace as well as the ruins underneath.
Frederiksborg Castle - also the Natural History Museum located a bit further way in Hillerød.
Frederiksberg Palace - sitting on top of a hill looking over Frederiksberg Gardens and a short taxi ride from the centre
Rosenberg Castle - in the middle of Copenhagen and home to the Danish Crown Jewels. Also part of the Parkmuseerne green museum and park district pass if you plan to visit multiple sites.
Nyhavn
Insta-favourite Nyhavn (new harbour) has Kongens Nytorv square close to one end and Amalienborg to the left as you look out to the main harbour. It's lined with restaurants, wooden boats and apartments on each side and is a lively part of the city during the day and night. The restaurants typically serve fairly standard Danish fare but some are on the touristy side. However, if you pick well there are also some good spots. With a number of boutique hotels on Nyhavn and in the surrounding area, this is a good part of the city to be based especially if it's your first visit. If the Little Mermaid is on your list, you will also find it in this general area.
Tourist boats are often something to avoid but for a relatively modest price, the boat that starts and ends in Nyhavn is a terrific way to see some key Copenhagen sights from the water. Unless the weather is very cold it's worth layering up and sitting outside. If you are only in town for a short time, definitely add this to the list.
Vesterbro & Tivoli Gardens
This has a bit of everything from big hotels, office, shops to Tivoli itself. Being close to the central railway station always adds a slight grittiness to things but this is Copenhagen after all so not much to worry about there. The short story is there is plenty to do in this lively area day or night.
Tivoli Gardens itself is an amusement park that's hard to miss. Tickets are moderately priced - there is a basic entry ticket (DKK145) then an add-on if you want to do the rides (DKK245-295). It's worth getting an unlimited ride pass as there are plenty of rides and depending on the time you visit, the queues are very manageable. Dusk and early evening are popular times to visit when you get the full experience with all the lights but if you want to maximise ride laps, afternoon is a good option. There are some good places to eat and, as amusement parks go, this is one of the nicest I have visited by a decent margin. Well worth a go especially if you have children/teens to entertain.
Shopping
The Strøget pedestrianised shopping mall is the largest shopping area in Copenhagen stretching over a kilometre from Kongens Nytorv to Vesterbro & Tivoli Gardens. While it has all of the stores you would expect to find in a European High Street, you will also find the beautiful Illums Bolighus department store full of Danish design, the flagship Royal Copenhagen and other famous Danish names like Georg Jensen, Lego and a huge, multi-level Hay House store. Even if you aren't much of a shopper, this is not a bad place to spend a few hours. The side streets off Strøget are also worth checking out for more design stores and smaller boutiques.
Tips:
The Round Tower is a famous Copenhagen landmark just off Strøget with great views after climbing the wide spiral staircase.
Stop for lunch at Restaurant Kronberg - a renowned lunch spot serving Danish classics. It is popular so it probably pays to be book however they graciously found a table for four in the middle of lunch service for us. An excellent place to sample rollmop. Brolæggerstræde 12, 1211.
If you want to venture a bit further afield, the more hipster street Jægerborggade in Nørrebro may be worth a visit. Inge Vincents' ceramics store is a highlight as is the handmade toffee shop Karamelleriet. Other than Jægerborggade, you might have to dig a bit deeper in Nørrebro to find much else worth visiting except if you want to see the resting places of some famous Danes including the man himself, Hans Christian Anderson and Niels Bohr for the physics buffs. These are located within the large Hans Tavsens Park at the end of Jægerborggade.
Danish Design
You really can't visit Copenhagen without indulging in some classic Danish design whether that's furniture, textiles, ceramics or electronics. There is a lot to explore but the following is a helpful starter guide: https://www.plumguide.com/journal/11-best-design-shops-in-copenhagen.
Museums & Galleries
Copenhagen is well-stocked with excellent museums and galleries and visitcopenhagen.com has a helpful guide to the top ones. Contemporary art is well represented including at the quirky Kunsthal Charlottenburg and if you are interesting in Danish architecture the Danish Architecture Centre would be worth visiting.
Eating
First on your list has to be rollmop, the famous pickled herring dish. It comes in a variety of formats from topping Smørrebrød (open faced sandwiches not to be confused with Smörgåsbord) to herring three ways including a curried variety. Restaurant Kronberg (noted above) does excellent Smørrebrød but it's ubiquitous across Copenhagen and Denmark so not hard to find.
Like most European cities, restaurants serving local cuisine tend to stick to a fairly standard list of items but even so, there is enough variety to keep everyone happy. There are also plenty of other cuisines on offer so finding places to eat that cater to different tastes wasn't a stressful activity although booking in advance is definitely a good idea at peak times and in popular spots.
At one end of the scale there are around 16 Michelin starred restaurants in Copenhagen and at the other, hotdog stands with a Danish twist are a popular easy snack. The ubiquitous cinnamon pastries - Kanelsnegle - won't be hard to come by either. In short, you are unlikely to go home hungry or disappointed in the food in Copenhagen. Be prepared however to spend more than you would expect relative to other European capitals.
Overall
Will we be back? Most definitely. In fact, on paper Copenhagen might not be the most exciting destination for two mid-teens children but it turns out it is at the top of their list of places to go back to. No-one can put their finger on exactly why, but Copenhagen somehow manages to effortlessly blend style, aesthetics, food, people and culture with a calm and relaxing experience that leaves you wanting more (and wondering what it would be like to actually live there).
Photo credits: @amandinedesign
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