Switzerland's Jungfrau region is every bit as spectacular in real life as the pictures suggest and a worthwhile experience for something a little different from your standard European resort.
Getting There
One of the nice things about this region is getting there is an enjoyable park of the experience but one that requires some planning and a little patience.
By Train
Probably the easiest way to get here is via the excellent Swiss train network. You have the option of trains from the main airports of Basel, Geneva and Zurich along with Bern (plus connections to the rest of Europe). From any destination you need to aim for Interlaken Ost (not West) where you transfer to the regional train up the mountain (see below). Direct trains (no changes required) are obviously the best but it depends on your departure city if that's an option. See https://www.sbb.ch/en for all the train information and online bookings. It's also worth downloading the app where you can store your electronic tickets so create an account before booking
SBB First Class in the upstairs section
Basel - a small airport which in normal times should be efficient but on our visit was a bit chaotic with COVID documentation checks. There is no train station at the airport so you have to take a taxi (15-20 mins) to the main Basel SBB station (about CHF40 per taxi (2 people plus gear) - your first indication that Switzerland is not a budget destination). Travel time is around 2:50 to Interlaken.
Geneva - along with Zurich, a main gateway into Switzerland and a larger airport with decent facilities although lacking in food options. The two main advantages are the frequency of flights and that you can catch a train directly via a short walk from the airport terminal. Travel time is around 3:00 to Interlaken. Bern is a popular spot to change trains and it is usually just an easy platform swap so a 10 minute transfer time is more than adequate.
Zurich - the most popular airport for this region due to the frequency of flights and distance. Bern is closer but there are limited flight options. Like Geneva, you can catch the train directly from the airport (flughafen) terminal. Travel time is around 2:15 to Interlaken.
Bern - the closest train connection with an airport but with limited flight options. You are more likely to change trains for Interlaken Ost here and journey time is around an hour.
Tips:
Book a flexible (point-to-point) ticket for when you arrive in case you have flight delays etc. That enables you to catch any train that day versus a specific time with the Supersaver ticket.
If you are taking more than two train journeys within Switzerland it may be worth purchasing a half-price rail-card. They cost around CHF180 but pay themselves back after a couple of trips especially if you are traveling First.
First class is worth booking and while not quite as luxurious as other European train networks, the upstairs seating is comfortable, spacious and quieter.
The https://www.sbb.ch/en is the best place to book tickets and plan your journey directly. It allows you to experiment with different ticket combinations to find the best price.
Interlaken Ost station with the Berner-Oberland train to Lauterbrunnen
Once you are at Interlaken Ost you can transfer to the regional Berner-Oberland train. Interlaken Ost is a small station so transfers are simple and you don't need a lot of time however there are a few things to keep in mind:
If you pre-purchase a Jungfrau ski pass (access to all areas vs. just the Grindelwald-Wengen pass) it includes local train travel anywhere from Interlaken. However, it is only valid for the days the ski pass is valid therefore you will most likely need to purchase tickets from/to Interlaken in advance.
Purchasing tickets in advance is a good idea as it means you can jump on the first train available or you might need to wait up to 30 mins.
Despite what the jungfrau.ch website says, you cannot collect your lift tickets from the machines on the platform if you have purchased in advance - you need to go to the ticket office.
Check where you need to change trains once you depart from Interlaken depending on which town you are staying in (Grindelwald, Wengen or Mürren).
Wengenalp cog railway - the ones you actually travel on are more modern sadly
Once you reach your transfer station you need to switch to the Wengenalp cog railway. Again, this is easy even though you have to haul the bags on and off again. It can be a bit of a scrum getting all the people and bags on and off the train so some patience might be needed. It's also worth stacking the bags carefully as the gradient gets steep and things tend to fall and roll all over the place.
For Wengen, change at Lauterbrunnen (you can base yourself in Lauterbrunnen as well and catch the train to the slopes but you are probably better off in one of the three towns above unless you like spending time on trains every day).
For Grindelwald, change at Zweilütschinen unless there is a direct train.
For Mürren you catch the cable car from Lauterbrunnen and then take a 15 minute train ride to the village (although having not done this I'm not exactly sure how it all works).
So, after three or four train changes you've made it. It takes a while and loading and off-loading the bags is a bit of a pain but it's not particularly stressful overall. Once you reach Interlaken the trains up the mountain are regular so you are unlikely to have to wait more than about 30 minutes. Planning the trains is more complex than it actually is once you get there.
Wengenalp railway and the Eigernordwand
By Road
Depending on where you are coming from, a road transfer may be a more direct option versus train hopping. Bear in mind that Grindelwald is the only town you can actually drive to so if you are staying in Wengen or Mürren you need to park at Lauterbrunnen and take the train. It's strongly advised to pre-book the parking. Given the distance of the resorts from the airports, road transfers are expensive. For example, a return van transfer from Zurich to Lauterbrunnen at New Year was quoted at around EUR950 - more than double first class train tickets for 4 people.
Where We Stayed
Hotel Maya Caprice, Wengen. A good quality, good value hotel situated close to the middle of town. It has aspirations to be a boutique hotel and is trying hard, but needs a little more work to make the grade.
The Towns
Excluding Lauterbrunnen and the other small settlements you pass on the way up the valley, the three main towns are Grindelwald, Wengen and Mürren. Each have their own unique characteristics so do some research and pick what you think is right for you. What they all share is spectacular locations and views so wherever you end up, you won't be disappointed in the scenery. This post focuses mostly on Wengen where we stayed.
Wengen
The central railway station is more or less the only way in and out of the town since it is car-free for everything but a small number of electric local hotel mini-vans to transport bags and supplies up and down from the station. There are a few local taxi vans and service vehicles but generally it's fairly pedestrianised.
Wengen has one main street with hotels, restaurants, ski shops and small supermarkets. There is a decent sized Coop supermarket a few steps from the station as well or a smaller one about halfway along the main street which is a good option when Coop has queues. Houses in Wengen spread a fair distance from the centre so if you are renting a house, check the location and you'll probably need to book a taxi. Most of the hotels have various ways of helping you bring the gear and up and down from the station if you ask them for assistance.
Wengen's Main Street - usually covered in a lot more snow than you see here!
Wengen isn't quite the chocolate box Swiss village in a way other resorts are but its not without its charm especially when covered in snow. Its relatively low elevation of ~1200m means that this may not always be the case especially in early or late season.
Like most towns in Switzerland restaurant options are almost exclusively within hotels. It pays to book in advance especially if you are there are peak times where walk-ins are very difficult. We tried a few different places in Wengen and had some good food although if you are on a budget you'll be much better off self-catering. Many of the restaurants had quite "formal" menus which isn't always what you feel like eating and can be challenging with children so it's worth checking the menus before booking. There is limited on-line booking (although try local.ch) but there was a good hit rate on email enquiries.
Restaurant Maya Caprice (our hotel) - The dining room is pleasant (if a little bland) but during the day has beautiful views down the Lauterbrunnen valley from the terrace. It's relatively expensive and the food was good but not amazing (but nice pizzas). Friendly staff.
Da Sina Pizzeria - Located alongside Sina's pub (which is probably the best bar in Wengen), this is a popular spot that serves pizza, pasta and fondue. The food is great (we went twice), the prices moderate and the rustic decor feels appropriate to the location. Despite having a booking, the maitre d' reallocated us to an average table next to the kitchen after our initial greeter had planned to sit us next to the window which was a bit annoying.
Pasta & More - A popular spot right in the middle of the main street, Pasta & More is appropriately named. The fit-out is modern and not particularly charming but not terrible. The food is similar, nice but not remarkable. In the mix of Wengen restaurants it is worth visiting however.
Restaurant Eiger - Located in the Eiger hotel opposite the train station, they have two restaurants - a more formal one and what appears to be a more casual one. We were in town for NYE and it was tough to get a booking anywhere however we managed to secure a spot here. Unfortunately in Wengen (and most other places) the NYE menu tends to be a fixed one with either multiple courses or in our case, the popular Fondue Chinoise (where you cook the meat in the hot oil). The Fondue was great but at CHF75 a head, expensive for what you actually get. That aside, the dining room was in the local style and the staff friendly and helpful.
Crystal Bar - If you are after an apres-ski pub, this is one of the few choices in Wengen. It's loud, a bit sticky but fairly classic ski pub. They do have a limited food menu (pizza, nachos etc.) which is nothing special but good if you just fancy something casual with a beer after a day on the mountain.
Wengen Main Street - Photo: Hotel Bernerhof
Other places we didn't try but looked nice where:
Restaurant Bären - we oped out of this one after having a booking because the menu looked a bit challenging with our young teenagers. Expensive but if you looking for a more fine dining option then worth checking out.
Stubli at at Hotel Schönegg - looks to be one of the nicer hotels in Wengen and no doubt the restaurant is similar but like Bären, more fine dining focused.
Pickle Bar - small cosy bar that looks fun.
Taverne Bernerhof - located in the hotel of the same name, this looks nice although we weren't able to get a booking. They have a nice bar in the hotel as well where we did manage to have a drink at.
Grindelwald
We were originally booked to stay at the Hotel Kreuz & Post in the middle of Grindelwald until the Swiss did some COVID entry restriction flip-flopping that messed up our original plans. Grindelwald is much larger than Wengen and feels more like a bustling ski town with more shops, restaurants etc. You can also drive to Grindelwald so it can be busy cars, buses etc. It's probably down to personal preference as to whether you prefer this style of town or something smaller like Wengen.
Grindelwald - Photo by Christopher Izquierdo on Unsplash
From a mountain perspective it is worth noting two important things:
The Grindelwald First ski area can be accessed by cable-car in the middle of town. However the queues to get on can be huge at peak times. We decided one day to ski down from Wengen, catch the bus from the Terminal and try the First ski area. With q queue that would easily have exceeded an hour we gave up in the end.
The Grindelwald Terminal is a new complex that houses the relatively new Eiger cable car and the gondola back to Wengen. It is around 20 minutes on the bus from the middle of town however. You can ski to the Terminal from Wengen which is a nice long run but there will be some wait time with buses and lifts to try and ski Wengen and Grindelwald on the same day.
Otherwise, our experience of Grindelwald was limited but it's a popular spot for good reason and somewhere we'd likely return to try in the future.
Mürren
We didn't make it to Mürren but it's possible to get there from both Wengen and Grindelwald however you need to take the train down the mountain and up the cable car from Lauterbrunnen. It's quicker to do this from Wengen but if you are up early, no reason you couldn't from Grindelwald as well. Most of the guides advise that the runs tend to more on the advanced side and there are a couple of surface lifts to look out for if that's not your thing. For James Bond fans, perhaps the biggest attraction is the solar powered revolving restaurant at Shilthorn / Piz Gloria - Blofeld's allergy clinic mountain-top hideout. "I'm not a sporting man fraulein...".
Go to-to-toe with Jaws on the Schilthorn cable car - Photo by Leila Azevedo on Unsplash
The Mountain
This section focuses exclusively on Wengen as the New Year crowds thwarted our attempt to test our Grindelwald first. The good news is that you can happily spend a week on the slopes of Wengen without getting bored. One thing that is not in this region's favour is the aspect. On icy days you'll find yourself chasing the sun with Männlichen getting it early and you can enjoy the late sun on the Lauberhorn in the afternoon - especially in mid-winter. Overall, not the sunniest resort in the world.
The view of the Eiger's North Face doesn't get old. Kleine Scheidegg at the bottom.
Ski Passes
There are two types of passes you can by for the Jungfrau region - one covering the whole region (Grindelwald, Wengen and Mürren) and one just for Grindelwald-Wengen. The catch is that only the Jungfrau pass allows for free train travel across the lines up from Interlaken. You may be tempted to think that since you won't be going to Mürren then you can save a few francs with the Grindelwald-Wengen pass, however you'll soon use any savings on train tickets. For the relatively small price difference it's better to have the flexibility to catch the trains and buses whenever you need them without having to worry about tickets.
Three things to keep in mind:
Your Jungfrau ski pass is your ticket. So if you are traveling on the trains and not skiing, don't leave the ticket in your ski jacket.
The conductors are fairly hot on checking tickets. Ours were checked on every train ride except, strangely, from Interlaken to Wengen.
Free train travel is only valid for the days the lift pass is valid therefore you will probably have to buy tickets up and down from Interlaken.
Männlichen
You can access this part of the mountain via the Männlichenbahn cable car from the main street in Wengen. The queues can be long at most times of the day so the earlier the better. At the top you have several decent restaurant options but the ordering process can be frustratingly slow.
The new Männlichenbahn gondola connecting Grindelwald to Wengen. Photo: Jungfrau.ch
A few things to note about this part of the mountain:
If you plan to cover the whole mountain in a day - which is likely - Männlichen is the best place to start the day. The reason is that it is far easier to get to Kleine Scheidegg from Männlichen than the other way around.
If you do attempt the reverse then watch out for the Tschuggen T-bar which is almost impossible to avoid unless you ski down to Grindelwald Terminal and take the gondola back up.
The run down to Grindelwald Terminal is a long, easy one (with a few flat bits to keep us snowboarders happy). Once at the Terminal you have the option of taking the gondola back up to Männlichen or the Eiger Express cable car which takes you up close past the Eiger's North Face and deposits you at the Eigergletscher in 15 minutes. From there you can take the train to the Jungfraujoch "top of Europe" but at CHF68 per person this seemed a stretch with the views already on offer.
The Berghaus Männlichen is a good spot for lunch with a large terrace
Kleine Scheidegg
The other "hub" is Kleine Scheidegg which you access via the train from Wengen station. It takes around 25 minutes for it to trundle up the cogs but in terms of commutes, it could be worse. The train leaves from Wengen around quarter past and quarter to the hour. Once at Kleine Scheidegg there are few different places to eat, a sports shop and the option to take the train down to Grindelwald although you'll need to change trains.
There is some good riding in this part of the mountain particularly some of the terrain to the side of the pistes of the Lauberhorn lift and off the sides of the Eigernordwand lift. The Arven lift is the one to aim for if you are skiing on the left side (left if you are facing up the mountain).
Kleine Scheidegg looking up to the Lauberhorn
If you are finishing your day in this part of the mountain you have the option of catching the train home back to Wengen or Grindelwald or taking piste 36 all the way to Wengen. It's a long blue run with a mix of pistes and tracks. Enough flat parts to be annoying on a board but not a show stopper. You access the trail either from the back side of the train station or coming down from Lauberhorn.
Overall
Would we come back? Probably yes, but I would aim for later in the season rather than New Year given it is not on a glacier and the towns are at relatively low elevations. The snow was average when we were there but badly affected by unseasonably warm weather and rain. With the multiple train changes, it's not the same as getting in a van at the airport and arriving at your resort but nor is it particularly difficult or stressful if you plan things carefully in advance. Switzerland is also expensive overall so be prepared but if you are looking for truly spectacular big mountain scenery then it's hard to go past the Jungfrau region.
Eiger, the Eiger Glacier and the
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