A quick guide for first-timers wanting to explore the South Island by car.
Background
As an ex-pat Kiwi, a lot of friends and colleagues ask for advice about how best to see the South Island. There is a lot to see in NZ, but it's not a vast country so relatively easy to cover a lot of ground by car without overly gruelling road trips. NZ has everything from some of the best luxury lodges you'll find anywhere to the freedom of a camper van holiday. Treat this short guide as a starter for planning a South Island trip. You can mix and match as you see fit but by talking the circuitous routes suggested you'll hit the maximum number of places without covering the same ground twice. Enjoy, and have a Speights and a munce pie for me.
Photo by Photoholgic on Unsplash (Lake Wakatipu, Queenstown)
Arriving
Most visitors to the South Island will start in Christchurch, the South Island's largest city. It's still in the process of rebuilding from the devastating 2011 earthquake, so take some time to give Christchurch some love and enjoy the innovative recovery spirit that pervades the town.
You can fly directly into Christchurch International Airport or catch a ~90 minute domestic flight from Auckland where there are more international flight options. Most car rentals are easily accessible at the airport.
Driving
Cars are easy to rent (right-hand drive) and the roads are generally relatively quiet and easy to navigate. Road rules are similar to the UK/Aust/Singapore but it's worth checking local specifics before embarking as there are some differences. You will need an international driving permit to drive in NZ. A couple of important things to keep in mind:
Sadly, too many tourists die in road accidents due to mistakes driving on single lane roads, mountains and challenging weather. Most roads are single lane in both directions and it's not uncommon to encounter unsealed roads when venturing off main routes. Newzealand.com has some good tips.
Be conservative with route planning. Physical distance might not be a good guide to travel time due to conditions and geography.
Insurance - check your policy carefully. Some don't cover unsealed roads or certain types of mountain driving e.g. Skippers Canyon near Queenstown.
Photo by Pakata Goh on Unsplash
What to pack
Even in summer NZ can have some wild and unpredictable weather. Whatever time of year you visit, be prepared for anything. In winter, snow and ice are common so prepare accordingly. In other seasons, pack something warm and waterproof along with the shorts and bathers ("togs" in NZ). You'll probably do a fair amount of walking so it's a good idea to bring shoes that are suitable for trekking over a variety of country and don't mind a bit of mud.
Will I be able to speak the language?
Aside from some mixed up vowels, you'll probably be fine if you have a reasonable grasp of English. The icsints might be a bit challenging for first-timers, but Kiwis are generally a friendly and patient bunch. Te Reo (Maori language) is an official second language of New Zealand and you will see official signs in both languages along with many place names. If someone says kia ora, they are saying hello; haere mai, welcome.
Itinerary - Bottom Half of the South Island
Minimum recommended time: 1 week. You can accelerate the itinerary below by spending less time in some of the places or skipping them all together. Check out the separate post on the top half of the South Island (coming soon) which you can do separately or combine with the below.
Day 1 - Christchurch
Arriving at Christchurch airport, hire a car and plan to spend at least a day getting organized for your road trip. Christchurch and surrounds are worth exploring if you have time.
Christchurch
Christchurch is my original home town and despite the many decades spent away it's still a special place. In February 2011 it was devastated by a massive earthquake following a larger, but less destructive one, in 2010. 185 people died and large parts of the city were destroyed or rendered uninhabitable. Over the last decade Christchurch has been rebuilding and the work continues however innovation and tenacity has been key to how the city has emerged from this crisis.
Photo by Brayden Gray on Unsplash
If you have a few extra days to spare in Christchurch there is plenty of local and near-by things to keep you occupied.
Botanic Gardens & Hagley Park - In the middle of the city, the Botanic Gardens are part of Christchurch's "Garden City" soul. Adjacent Hagley park has everything from local Rugby matches in the winter to walking and biking trails.
Port Hills - For those less inclined to hiking, take the Gondola to the top of Mount Cavendish and enjoy the 360 degree views of the Southern Alps, Christchurch, Lyttleton and Banks Peninsula. For the walkers, there are a lot of trails for varying abilities that criss-cross the Port Hills along with some great mountain biking trails.
Beaches - Christchurch has a number of beach option for those brave enough to handle the Southern Ocean water. Check out Brighton and Sumner as two of the closest options.
Hot Air Ballooning - Although I've never done it, hot air ballooning over the Canterbury Plains on a clear frosty morning looks like one of those experiences you wouldn't forget in a hurry.
The Avon River runs through the centre of Christchurch. Take a scenic walk along it's banks in the central city through the to botanical gardens or jump on a punt and take a leisurely tour.
Antarctic Centre - If you are traveling with children, the International Antarctic Centre at the airport is worth visiting.
Akaroa - Around 80km from Christchurch on the other side of Bank's Peninsula is the historically French whaling settlement of Akaroa. It's a pretty spot on a natural harbour and worth a day trip.
Hamner Springs - If you fancy a dip in the natural hot pools, Hamner might be a fun way to spend a day. Around 130km from Christchurch, it's an easy day trip. On the downside, it's a bit touristy and if splashing around in public pools with a bunch of strangers isn't your thing then skip this one.
Day 2 - Christchurch to Franz Joseph or Fox Glacier
Your road trip starts by heading out of the city on State Highway 73 towards the mighty Southern Alps. You'll drive through the farmlands and towns of the Canterbury Plains before reaching Springfield at the base of the mountains. From Springfield you'll start your traverse of the Alps towards the West Coast. There are a number of scenic spots to stop but the mountain weather can be unpredictable.
Castle Hill area with its cool rock formations
Lake Pearson
Arthur's Pass Village
Otira
Reaching the West Coast, you'll turn left towards Hokitika - a moderately sized town you don't need to linger in too long.
The West Coast
The Coast is a rugged and wild, beautiful place. Situated between the Southern Ocean and the Southern Alps, it is one of the wettest parts of NZ with the Fohn winds dumping moisture before blowing hot and dry over the Canterbury Plains. There's every chance your time in the Coast will be wet but that's part of the deal unfortunately. Driving along the sparsely populated coast, you'll pass wild ocean beaches, rainforest and very few cars.
Photo by Delphine Ducaruge on Unsplash
From Hokitika you'll drive down State Highway 6 heading slightly inland through some small towns before you arrive at Franz Joseph Glacier.
Glaciers
The two main glacier towns are Franz Joseph / Waiau (many places are English and Maori dual named) and Fox Glacier. Franz Joseph is the larger of the two and a tourist hub of the region with a number of accommodation options and excursions to the glaciers including helicopter and hiking trips. Fox is a lot smaller but perhaps a little more charming. You can visit the Glaciers from either location. Lake Mathieson is a worthwhile short side trip if staying in Fox.
Photo by Matthew De Zen on Unsplash
Day 3 - Option 1: Full Day Glacier and a second night in Franz/Fox
If you opt for a full-day glacier excursion then it's worth spending a second night in one of the towns. Alternatively, you can aim for a morning on the glacier and the afternoon driving to the next destination. The itinerary will assume you do the latter. Add a day to the itinerary of you opt for the former.
Day 3 - Option 2 Morning on the Glacier then Franz/Fox to Wanaka
Once you have your fill of the ice, you'll continue down State Highway 6 through Haast before heading inland following the spectacular drive along the Haast River towards Wanaka. Potential scenic spots to stop along with the way include:
Thunder Falls
Fantail Falls
Blue Pools
Bear in mind that Franz Joseph to Wanaka is around 280km / 4 hours driving in good conditions.
Photo by charles Lebegue on Unsplash
Day 4-5 - Wanaka
Wanaka is on the shores of the eponymous lake and depending on the season it is a bustling ski town with the nearby Cardrona, Treble Cone and Snowpark ski fields as well as being a summer lake boating favourite. It's a great spot to base yourself for a day or two (or longer if you can) although it's friendly rival Queenstown beckons over the Crown Range.
If you are planning to ski, you will need to drive up to the ski fields or take a bus. Make sure you are comfortable driving on unsealed mountains roads that will often have ice, snow and mud to contend with. Both Cardrona and Treble Cone (best for more advanced riders) are great but don't expect Northern Hemisphere facilities or scale. Stop at the Cardrona pub for a Speights and a pie on the way down from Cardrona.
Otherwise, consult the guidebook, drink some great local wine and explore the area.
Photo by Stephen Dawson on Unsplash
Day 6 - Wanaka to Queenstown
From Wanaka to Queenstown you have two choices of route. State Highway 6 will take you via the scenic Kawarau Gorge and takes around 90 minutes. Driving over the Crown Range is stunning and takes around 60-70 minutes but winter weather can make driving challenging and the route is often closed. It's also steep and winding in parts so take it easy if you are not used to such roads.
Photo by Dan Preindl on Unsplash (Crown Range)
Day 6-9 - Queenstown
You can customise Queenstown to fit into the time you have but spending a week or more here isn't unreasonable particularly as it is a hub for many different experiences and places to visit in the region. When booking accommodation it's worth keeping in mind that as Queenstown has expanded around the lake, not everything will be located in or close to the town itself. Frankton, for example, is about a 15-20 minute drive in normal traffic from Queenstown but may offer some more affordable options. It's also home to the big supermarkets and wine stores for supplies. In general however, if you are a first time visitor you should probably aim for something in walking distance from the town centre to get the best experience.
Queenstown
New Zealand's most famous tourist destination sits on the shores of Lake Wakatipu in the shadow of the aptly named Remarkables mountain range . While there are plenty of local and international tourists, Queenstown has managed to retain its charm despite the tour buses. QT is also a hub for the vast range of adventure and other activities the region has to offer so you're unlikely to get bored no matter how long you choose to stay. The adventure tourist options are evolving all the time but some of the classics are:
Shotover Jet - the original and worth doing at least once
Dart River Jet - explore further afield at the top of the lake and into the wilds of the Dart River
Helicopters - You'll find some of the world's best heli pilots and a wide range of experiences on offer from scenic flights to full-day adventures.
The Earnslaw - The Lady of the Lake is a steamship that has been plying it's trade for over 100 years. You can go full tourist and visit a farm with sheep shearing etc. or just a mellow cruise with people having tea.
AJ Hacket Bungy - The original 43m plunge at Kawarau Bridge is the go-to starting point but there are bigger and hairier options if you are keen.
Whitewater Rafting - Plenty of options if you fancy a plunge or two in the snowmelt
Glenorchy - Around a 40 minute drive from Queenstown, Glenorchy sits at the top of the lake in spectacular surrounds. Nothing much to do there but the drive itself is worthwhile.
Golf - There are some excellent courses including Millbrook and Athur's Point but also a very good public course at Arrowtown.
Arrowtown - Around a 20 minute drive from Queenstown is the charming, and largely intact, gold mining town of Arrowtown. Try gold panning at the Arrow River close to town (you can rent pans on the main street) or wander through the Chinese miners village.
Skippers Canyon - The road isn't for the faint hearted but there are plenty of excursion options that let you enjoy the scenery. Head up to Macetown for a genuine gold mine ghost town.
Skyline Gondola - unashamedly touristy but worth doing for two things: the classic postcard photo of Queenstown and the lake and the luge, weather permitting. You can also walk / bike up and down if you are fully embracing the Kiwi outdoor spirit
Wineries - There is a lot of choice both close to Queenstown and a little further afield at Bannockburn for example. The signature wine of the region is a very specific style of cold climate Pinot Noir but there are also some excellent whites to sample. Old favourites close to Queenstown include Amisfield, Peregrine, and Chard Farm (fun access road).
Photo by Photoholgic on Unsplash
A few others:
Driving from Queenstown to Arrowtown the back way via Gorge Road, take a left turn just before the Edith Cavill bridge onto Oxenbridge Tunnel Road, park where you can and find a spot and take the easy Oxenbridge Tunnel Track walk along the Shotover River.
Take a walk around the foreshore of the lake to the edge of the Botanic Gardens and follow the lakeside trail. An easy walk from town.
Grab an early morning bacon roll and coffee at Joe's Garage on Searle Lane
Walk around Lake Hayes (near Arrowtown) at any time of year but it is truly spectacular in autumn.
For trainspotters, take the Kingston Flyer steam train on the 14km route from Kingston at the bottom of the lake (limited times)
Finding things to do in Queenstown isn't hard. There is a great tourist office in the Mall and hotels and apartments all have walls of brochures with different options. There are also many great places to eat and party if that's your thing but sadly it's been too long since I was there to share many restaurant recommendations with exception of the The Cow. A Queenstown institution for many years, it's the place to go for pizza especially in the winter to be roasted by the huge open fire. It's popular so book ahead.
We also love Eichardt's bar for a drink by the fire (they have a restaurant as well), Millbrook for more drinks beside fireplaces (the Clubhouse is a great spot for lunch especially if the weather is average), Jacks Point Restaurant (with or without the golf).
Te Anau / Milford Sound
One of the most spectacular and photographed locations in NZ is Milford Sound and for good reason. The weather is unpredictable but it's a highly worthwhile excursion. There are a number of options for how to get there:
Drive - Queenstown to Milford Sound itself is around 288km. It's possible to do in a day but it's a big day.
A good option if driving is to stay in Te Anau beside the lake. QT to Te Anau is around 180km. If basing yourself in Te Anau for a few days check out the glow worm caves and a visit to the underground hydro power station at Manapouri (currently closed)
There are number of small plane and helicopter options to get to Milford and/or fly over the sounds.
Bus - slower but gives the chance to take in the scenery instead of navigating.
Check with your concierge or the tourist office for the best Combo to suit your needs.
Once in Milford, the best way to explore the Sounds is by boat. Book ahead if you are planning a boat trip.
Photo by Amy Workman on Unsplash
Day 10 - Queenstown-Christchurch
Queenstown to Christchurch is around 500km and takes around 7 hours on a normal day. Easy to do in a day with a few stops along the way. Heading out down State Highway 6, you'll follow the Kawarau Gorge until turning towards Cromwell. The Cromwell area is famous for summer fruits hence the giant peach. For some of NZ's best Pinot Noir, take a short diversion to Bannockburn and the wineries in the area.
At Cromwell, you'll switch to State Highway 8 and follow the man-made hydro power Lake Dunstan before crossing the Lindis Pass. In winter, the Lindis can be affected by ice and snow so carrying chains is a good idea. On the other side is Omarama, a popular spot for fly fishing or a quick refuelling stop.
Photo by Eugene Quek on Unsplash (Lindis Pass)
Aoraki Mount Cook
NZ's highest mountain is accessible after Twizel by switching to State Highway 80. It's not a recommended diversion if driving from Queenstown to Christchurch in one day but if you have the time, worth visiting. There are limited options for staying at Aoraki itself. The Hermitage Hotel offers 'classic' style accommodation and facilities but you are in the middle of some extraordinary country. If you are planning to hike/tramp in the area the best advice is to be prepared: good technical gear (including warm clothes and appropriate footwear), communications equipment, basic survival kit, logging your intended route and returns with someone. It might sound a bit much, but it's remote mountainous country with rapidly changing weather.
Photo by Julien Jugz on Unsplash
Continuing on SH8 you'll hit another popular stop - Lake Tekapo. The stunning blue lake and the much Instagrammed Church of the Good Shepard are worth a break to enjoy. From there you are pretty much on a straight run to Christchurch with the scenery turning to more rural farmland.
Itinerary - Alternative Routes
If you have limited time try these alternatives to the itinerary above:
Skip the West Coast and drive directly from Christchurch to Queenstown. You can add a stop in Wanaka on the way or at the end of your trip.
Fly from Christchurch to Queenstown. There are regular flights on the short route. You can chose to drive one way and fly the other or fly both ways and rent a car from Queenstown.
*****
If that's not enough, check out the post coming soon on the top half of the South Island that you can also pick up from Christchurch.
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